“The big one is on the left,” my Inuit guide, Amos Irkok, said with a twinge of excitement in his soft voice. I crawled up the back side of a bald, pebble-covered hilltop toward a coffee-table-sized ...

Caribou Booms and Busts Twenty-six years before this moment in September 2025, I first chased caribou on the central Canadian tundra. That was an adventure to the Nunavik region of northern Quebec to ...