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Nepal ranked 44th among 203 countries and territories in a 2023 LGBTQ+ Travel Safety Index. It was the leader in Asia, followed by Taiwan at number 48, India at 51 and Thailand at 62.

Part of the magic of trekking in Nepal used to be how easy it was to get started, but on 1 April 2023, the government imposed a radical shake-up of the country’s trekking rules.

The Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal, a group representing more than 2,000 guiding companies, has been lobbying for a “one-trekker, one-guide” system since 2012.

When Marine Annic, 35, a singer from France, wanted to trek in Nepal, she scoured the internet for female guides. Advertisement “Only a few women were proposing trekking services,” says Annic.