St. The pho Nam Định features fresh-made noodles and lots of beef. Photo: Hugo Yu When the chef Nhu Ton was in Hanoi in 2022, she rented a Vespa and lit out for the territories. While cruising around ...

Dishes are cooked as the chef envisions them, but sauces are on each table to add heat or spice as the diner wishes.

An An steers clear of the Saigon-style pho that dominates Sydney, instead championing its cousin from Vietnam’s north.