She’d bring Nam Định to New York. As she and her business partner, John Nguyen, soft-open their new spot, Bánh Anh Em, that pho is the centerpiece of the menu. And they’ve gone all in: In 2024, Ton ...

Dishes are cooked as the chef envisions them, but sauces are on each table to add heat or spice as the diner wishes.

There isn’t too much to say about southern Vietnamese pho in Sydney that hasn’t already been documented, analysed and argued.